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Professional carpet cleaning companies like Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning of Newport Beach, CA use several carpet cleaning methods to clean a home’s carpets. Each cleaning method has its own particular advantages and disadvantages. But how do you choose between them? Review these pros and cons before deciding which method you would like to be used to clean your carpet.

Basically, carpet cleaning methods may be placed in one of two categories: wet cleaning or dry cleaning. Wet cleaning includes hot water extraction and can include cleaning with an absorbent pad. Dry carpet cleaning involves the use of chemical powders or foams applied by special machines with counter rotating brushes, pads or cylinders.

1. Wet cleaning

How it works

Also known as hot water extraction or steam cleaning, the carpet is first pre-conditioned with a chemical reagent that liquefies soils and oil-based substances which may be present in the carpet fibers. Water is heated to a temperature near its boiling point and pressurized, then injected into the carpet. After about 10 to 15 minutes, the solution is extracted with a vacuum.

Pros

  • Gets out soiling from deep down in the carpet
  • Allows the use of high temperatures, pressures and chemical concentrates
  • Permits extended dwell times for reaction of cleaning solvents
  • Chemical reactivity facilitated by agitation with grooming tool or extraction wand
  • Most  widely used method
  • Recommended by carpet manufacturers and industry cleaning experts and professionals

Cons

  • Relatively long drying time, but this can be reduced with the use of powerful equipment by competent technicians
  • Expensive equipment usually required for maximum efficiency
  • Relatively high cost factors

2. Cleaning with an absorbent pad

How it works

This carpet cleaning method is also commonly known as bonnet cleaning and is most often used for routine light maintenance. It can also be used for regular carpet cleaning. The carpet is first vacuumed, and then a chemical solution is sprayed unto it with a hand pump or electric sprayer. The solution is allowed to stay on the carpet for a suitable dwell or reaction time.

The absorbent pad or bonnet, which looks like a towel, is placed on the drive block of a rotary floor machine and spun over the carpet surface at 100 to 300 rpm. This action serves to impregnate the carpet fibers with the chemical solution and then pick it up with the soils afterwards.

Pros

  • Fast, simple and inexpensive
  • Excellent results with lightly soiled carpets

Cons

  • Only cleans the top one-third of carpet fibers, incapable of reaching deeper down
  • Leaves dirt and chemicals to accumulate at the bottom of the carpet fibers

3. Dry cleaning with an absorbent compound

How it works

A powder that has been mixed with special solvents and cleaning agents is spread over the carpet, and then worked into the carpet fibers with a machine fitted with counter-rotating brushes. The powder absorbs soils in the carpet fibers. After it’s allowed to set on the carpet for 10 to 15 minutes, it’s vacuumed up.

Pros

  • Very simple system with no special technical training required
  • Very fast drying, it typically only takes about 20 minutes before the carpet can be back in service

Cons

  • Powder may be trapped in plush pile carpets and left to build up over time
  • Can cause excessive dust build-up in the home
  • Unable to clean deep down into the carpet

4. Dry foam or rotary shampoo method

How it works

A cleaning agent is applied to the carpet to help suspend dirt and debris in the carpet, which is then whipped into foam and worked into the carpet fibers with the rotating brushes of a special machine. After a short dwell time, the foam is extracted with a vacuum.

Pros

  • Fast, simple to apply and inexpensive
  • Rotating brushes provide excellent agitation
  • Small amount of moisture allows fast drying of carpet

Cons

  • Unable to achieve thorough soil extraction below the surface of the carpet
  • High temperatures usually not achieved
  • Excessive wetting possible with equipment malfunction

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Cleaning methods for every floor

Whether you hire a professional floor cleaner or do the job yourself, the fact is, our floors need to be cleaned. They get dirty, attract scuffs and accumulate spills. But what kind of cleaner should you use for different types of floors?

Asphalt tile: Try to mop every week using 1 cup of fabric softener in half a pail water. Don’t flood the floor, since excess water can loosen adhesives and grout. Remove marks with fine grade steel wool and liquid floor wax. Rub clean, then wipe with damp cloth.

Brick: Since brick is porous, keep the surface sealed and waxed with a commercial sealer. Mop after vacuuming. Use 1 cup of vinegar mixed in water to make it shine. Use a solvent-based wax, and use a wax stripper and brush to remove buildup as needed. Don’t use acids, strong soaps or abrasives.

Ceramic: Glazed ceramic is virtually stain proof; however if it is unglazed, that means it’s porous and will need to be sealed. Don’t use harsh abrasives, acids or strong soaps on unglazed ceramic. Mop with all-purpose cleaner, and dry with a soft cloth. Strip unglazed ceramic once a year and rinse thoroughly afterward.

Household floors go through a lot of wear on a daily basis. If you clean them yourself or hire a professional, make sure each surface is cleaned correctly. (Photo courtesy of Anita Britt)

Concrete: Since concrete is very porous, it stains easily. Prior to sealing with a commercial sealer, sweep up loose dirt, and clean with an all-purpose cleaner. Use kitty litter to absorb oil and grease on your garage floor. Spread with a stiff broom, working from the back of the garage to the front, and then wash clean using a garden hose. If you need to use a heavy-duty floor cleaner, apply with a sponge mop, rinse and allow to dry.  Concrete floors can be kept clean easier if they are treated with an epoxy paint or other strong coating.

Flagstone and slate: Natural stone is rough and porous and should be sealed with a commercial sealer. Apply two thin coats of acrylic floor finish using a lamb’s wool pad, or apply paste with a floor polishing machine. Occasionally strip, rinse and reapply wax. Use a mop using either clear water, all-purpose cleaner or water with fabric softener.

Linoleum and vinyl: Prior to waxing, vacuum and mop, remove marks with a fine grade steel wool. Cleaning linoleum and vinyl floors is easy, but be careful of the products you use.  Solvent-based products, scouring, flooding and using very hot water are all bad for linoleum. The fastest way to clean the floor is with a one-step cleaner or polish, but the best way is to mop with all-purpose cleaner.

Marble: Non-polished marble is very porous, so seal it with commercial sealer. Mop it with clear water and all-purpose cleaner. You can also use 1 cup fabric softener to ½ gallon water, and use a self-polishing liquid wax. Strip occasionally, rinse and reapply wax. You also can use water-based wax or paste wax. If using a paste, test in a corner of the room to make sure the paste won’t discolor the flooring.

Cleaning hardwood floors

Many vintage and restored homes have original hardwood floors made of oak, maple or exotic woods like Brazilian cherry. Bamboo and other hardwood alternatives have become popular in recent years because they are made from a renewable source. These floors can be cleaned by a daily sweep with a dust mop. Once a week, they can be damp mopped with a quality, liquid soap. There are also some cleaners that have gentle detergents and oils in them that will protect the wood’s natural finish.  However, whenever mopping a wood floor be careful not to get too much liquid on the floor at one time.  Wood floors can be damaged by being overly saturated.

Hiring a professional

Professional floor cleaners use special tools and methods to clean and disinfect stained floors. Most people are familiar with professional carpet cleaning, but professional floor cleaners also clean other kinds of flooring such as tile and wood. Here are some basic tips related to finding and hiring a professional floor cleaner:Pricing: The vast majority of professional floor cleaners charge for their services by the square foot. The larger the floor area that needs to be cleaned, the more it will cost to use a professional floor cleaner. We at Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning of Newport Beach has the lowest costs in Orange County, Startine at .50 cents per Sq. Ft.Finding a Floor Cleaner: Homeowners and business owners are fortunate because there are several ways that they can find a good floor cleaner. Check reviewes or chat with friends and family for a recommendation a quality professional floor cleaning company. Those who are hiring professional floor cleaners should always compare quotes from several different companies no matter how these companies are located.Frequency: Most experts recommend that carpeted floors be professionally cleaned at least once a year if they experience a lot of foot traffic. Tile floors should be cleaned professionally when the grout gets stained. The frequency of cleaning can be adjusted depending on special circumstances.

Floor maintenance

It is essential for homeowners and business owners to maintain their floors if they want to reduce the amount of money they spend on the repair, replacement and professional cleaning of their flooring. Here are some things to keep in mind:Ease of Maintenance: Simply put, some floors are easier to clean and maintain than others. Carpet needs far more attention than hard surfaces because it is easy for spills to stain carpet fibers. Dirt also gets ground into carpets quite easily. Hard surfaces such as tile and wood are simpler to clean because they do not easily stain, and they resist the damage that dirt can cause. Of these hard flooring options, wood is easier to maintain because, unlike most tiled floors, it does not have grout that can get stained.Basic Floor Care Products: A mop and a broom are a must for nearly anyone that has floors to clean. A vacuum will also be necessary if some or all of the flooring is carpeted. Spot cleaners will be needed for carpeted floors, and wax is required for wood floors.Keeping Dirt Away: The first step in floor cleaning and maintenance is keeping the dirt away. Welcome mats should be placed at entrances so that people can scrape the dirt off their shoes before they enter. In some places, such as a home, there can even be a rule that people remove their shoes before entering. Immediately cleaning up spills, especially on carpet, also makes it less likely that dirt will get embedded in the flooring.

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The battle between porcelain and marble tile rages on and many new homeowners are at a loss as to which side they should join. This battle has arisen for three main reasons:

  1. Homeowners are not sure what the difference is between the two tile choices.
  2. Homeowners are unaware of the upkeep that is needed for the different types of tile.
  3. Homeowners do not know which type of tile is appropriate for his or her lifestyle.

Instead of pushing consumers toward one type of tile or another, we as professionals simply need to provide the information they need to make an informed decision. Here are a few of the key factors consumers need to know when deciding which side to take in the battle of porcelain vs. marble.

Porcelain

Positive aspects:

Porcelain today has come a long way and there is porcelain out there for the right price that looks very much like marble or other natural stones.

Porcelain tiles are extremely strong and dense. The weight of porcelain tile can tell you quite a bit about their level of quality. Porcelain tile is frost resistant and it is highly resistant to stains, scratches and moisture.

Porcelain tiles do not chip easily. They are also hard wearing, meaning it is resistant to harsh cleaning products, stains and fading. Porcelain tile is very easy to clean and it can last for a very long time.

Negative aspects:

Porcelain tiles are very cold and hard, and some health experts believe that walking on such cold hard floors can cause unnecessary stress to the joints. Also, certain types of porcelain tile can be harder to clean than marble depending on if the texture is rough or smooth.

Another issue can arise in the event that a tile chips. Ironically, it may be easier to repair a natural stone like marble as opposed to porcelain, which will generally needs to be replaced.

Marble

Positive aspects:

Real marble tiles are truly magnificent to look at, they are beautiful and they are always unique. You will never find two marble surfaces that look exactly the same. Marble gives the sense of grandeur wherever it is laid and is also heavier than porcelain.

Marble is also very versatile. It can be used in any part of the house, including living rooms, dining rooms and foyers. Marble tile also has a health benefit – the marble is a natural stone and can actually keep away microscopic particles and germs if it is cleaned properly.

Negative aspects:

Marble, like many other stone tiles, has very high maintenance requirements. Marble is also porous, which means it can be stained, scratched and worn more easily.

A small spill of coffee or mustard can ruin your brand new marble floor or countertop. Having marble tile means that you will be required to get a true stone professional to come and refinish them for large amounts of money in order to keep the marble looking its best.

Since cleaning products for deep stains on marble are limited, it is worth the time and effort to hire a stone restoration professional as a consultant to choose a quality stone for you and give advice on the necessary maintenance for the stone you choose. Marble tile is generally not recommended for kitchen floors and countertops.

Obviously, the choice is left to the client. With the above information, he or she should be able to make a well-informed decision. For more info, call Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning of Newport Beach, CA to help make an informed decision.

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Hey Guys, I saw this and thought this would be helpful…

Instructions

  1. Vacuum the floor thoroughly on “hard floor” setting, paying special attention to under cabinets, appliances and corners where dust accumulates.
  2. Put 6 or 7 drops of dish soap in the bucket and fill with a gallon of hot water.
  3. Dip mop in soapy water and wring thoroughly to avoid putting excess water on the floor
  4. Mop one section of floor at a time (about 5’ x 5’ per mop-dip), rinsing mop in soapy water and wringing thoroughly before each section.
  5. When finished mopping entire floor, rinse mop thoroughly; empty and rinse bucket, and fill with clean hot water.
  6. Dip mop in clean hot water, wring thoroughly, and rinse-mop sections of floor with the clean, hot water.
  7. Using old towels, dry floors (linoleum contains grooves and if not sealed properly, will quickly absorb any excess liquid, giving the floor a dull , dingy look).

Linoleum Floor Deep Cleaning

Once or twice a year, your floor will need a deep scrubbing, especially if it has deep grooves or designs.

What you will need:

  • Vacuum Cleaner
  • Nylon-bristol scrub brush.
  • Mop (sponge or cloth—preferably self-wringing)
  • Bucket
  • Hot Water
  • Mild Dish Soap
  • Old Towels
  • Rubber gloves (optional)

Instructions:

  • Vacuum the floor thoroughly on “hard floor” setting, paying special attention to under cabinets, refrigerator and corners where dust accumulates.
  • Put 6 or 7 drops of dish soap in the bucket and fill with a gallon of hot water.
  • Dip scrub brush in soapy water and scrub floor in a circular motion, dipping the scrub brush in the soapy water as needed.
  • When done scrubbing entire floor, empty and rinse bucket, and fill with clean hot water. Rinse floor using same steps as #5-7 above.

Restoring the Finish

After years of wear and/or improper cleaning, your linoleum may loose its shine. If your linoleum appears dull or dingy, you may want to refinish it.

What you will need:

  • Nylon-bristol scrub brush.
  • Mop
  • Ammonia
  • Bucket
  • Hot Water
  • Old towels
  • Good quality floor wax**
  • Clean cloth or soft rags
  • Rubber Gloves (recommended)

Instructions:

  1. Using the mop, spread straight ammonia on the floor, working in sections.
  2. Allow to sit for a few minutes and scrub with the nylon scrub brush.
  3. When the entire floor has been scrubbed with ammonia, remove remaining residue by rinsing with a mop dipped in a bucket of hot water.
  4. Wipe dry using old towels
  5. Apply floor wax according to the directions on the label (generally, liquid floor waxes should be spread evenly with a cloth or rag and allowed to dry completely before adding a second coat).
  6. Wait at least one day before washing floor.

* Please note that ammonia can be a dangerous substance and should never be mixed with any other cleaners.

**You can find a good liquid floor wax for your linoleum floor at most janitorial supply stores, or at janitorial supply websites or call us at Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning, Newport Beach, CA (949) 545-5205

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Linoleum flooring shouldn’t be confused with Vinyl. Vinyl can handle a lot more wear and tear than linoleum, whereas with linoleum you need to be more careful as to the type of cleaners used.

Instructions

  1. Vacuum the floor thoroughly on “hard floor” setting, paying special attention to under cabinets, appliances and corners where dust accumulates.
  2. Put 6 or 7 drops of dish soap in the bucket and fill with a gallon of hot water.
  3. Dip mop in soapy water and wring thoroughly to avoid putting excess water on the floor
  4. Mop one section of floor at a time (about 5’ x 5’ per mop-dip), rinsing mop in soapy water and wringing thoroughly before each section.
  5. When finished mopping entire floor, rinse mop thoroughly; empty and rinse bucket, and fill with clean hot water.
  6. Dip mop in clean hot water, wring thoroughly, and rinse-mop sections of floor with the clean, hot water.
  7. Using old towels, dry floors (linoleum contains grooves and if not sealed properly, will quickly absorb any excess liquid, giving the floor a dull , dingy look).

Linoleum Floor Deep Cleaning

Once or twice a year, your floor will need a deep scrubbing, especially if it has deep grooves or designs.

What you will need:

  • Vacuum Cleaner
  • Nylon-bristol scrub brush.
  • Mop (sponge or cloth—preferably self-wringing)
  • Bucket
  • Hot Water
  • Mild Dish Soap
  • Old Towels
  • Rubber gloves (optional)

Instructions:

  • Vacuum the floor thoroughly on “hard floor” setting, paying special attention to under cabinets, refrigerator and corners where dust accumulates.
  • Put 6 or 7 drops of dish soap in the bucket and fill with a gallon of hot water.
  • Dip scrub brush in soapy water and scrub floor in a circular motion, dipping the scrub brush in the soapy water as needed.
  • When done scrubbing entire floor, empty and rinse bucket, and fill with clean hot water. Rinse floor using same steps as #5-7 above.

Restoring the Finish

After years of wear and/or improper cleaning, your linoleum may loose its shine. If your linoleum appears dull or dingy, you may want to refinish it.

What you will need:

  • Nylon-bristol scrub brush.
  • Mop
  • Ammonia
  • Bucket
  • Hot Water
  • Old towels
  • Good quality floor wax**
  • Clean cloth or soft rags
  • Rubber Gloves (recommended)

Instructions:

  1. Using the mop, spread straight ammonia on the floor, working in sections.
  2. Allow to sit for a few minutes and scrub with the nylon scrub brush.
  3. When the entire floor has been scrubbed with ammonia, remove remaining residue by rinsing with a mop dipped in a bucket of hot water.
  4. Wipe dry using old towels
  5. Apply floor wax according to the directions on the label (generally, liquid floor waxes should be spread evenly with a cloth or rag and allowed to dry completely before adding a second coat).
  6. Wait at least one day before washing floor.

* Please note that ammonia can be a dangerous substance and should never be mixed with any other cleaners.

**You can find a good liquid floor wax for your linoleum floor at most janitorial supply stores, or at janitorial supply websites.

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So you have wall-to-wall wool carpet in your home? Congratulations on your choice of flooring. You have the world most durable, tried-and-true carpet fiber known to man.

In the form of rugs, wool carpet has literally been around for thousands of years and is known to last for hundreds of years with proper care. The oldest known surviving rug is the Pazyryk Carpet, which is dated to the 4th or 5th century B.C. It’s only in the last couple hundred years that carpet was installed and stretched wall to wall rather than spread loose on the floor as rugs.

As wall-to-wall carpeting became more popular — and in the first half of the 20th century — wool fibers completely dominated the industry. There was simply nothing that compared with the quality. Sometime after the ’50s, however, nylon was invented and soon took the dominant position in the market, largely because it was much more economical than wool.

Wool is still available today and is much prized for its environmental perks, it ability to bounce back, ability to hide soil, its naturally fire-retardant qualities and many other advantages. The drawback is that a quality wool carpet typically costs 4 to10 times as much as the cheaper fibers.

Obviously, if you have a quality wool carpet in your home, you want to take good care of it. Now this article is primarily concerned with cleaning wall-to-wall wool carpets, not area rugs or Oriental rugs. These are very different and need to be cleaned differently. Always take your wool area rugs to a plant where they can be properly washed and dried in a controlled environment. Do not attempt to clean them the same way that you clean wall-to-wall carpet.

Now, can you get your expensive wool wall-to-wall carpet professionally cleaned? Absolutely, and you certainly should. One of the advantages of wool is that is can hide a tremendous amount of dirt before it begins to show. However, the dirt is still there and can cause Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) and odor issues as well as reducing the life of your carpet. Soil is very abrasive and will abrade the carpet fibers unless extracted out of the carpet. The good news is that it will not hurt your wool carpet to clean it using the industry recommended hot water extraction (steam) cleaning method. This is the most thorough, effective method for removing that greasy, gritty, fiber-eating soil in the base of the carpet. Here are a few pointers to remember when getting your wool carpet cleaned.

Being an organic fiber, wool will tend to smell a bit organic (wet doggish) when cleaned. This is part of the experience of owning a wool carpet, so don’t worry. This odor will quickly dissipate as the carpet dries. Drying should not take longer than 2 to 6 hours on average.

One of the advantages to using wool cloth or fibers is that it takes dyes very readily. One of the disadvantages is that it keeps on readily accepting dyes after installation. In other words, stain removal can be a pretty challenging proposition for wool, especially on old stains that have been set with time. You can certainly remove them with the right products and skill, but don’t expect to see that Kool-Aid pop out of your wool carpet like it did on your olefin carpet. Having your cleaning professional apply a high quality wool-safe carpet protector will aid in the removal of potential stains and spots.

Be sure that your cleaner does not use highly alkaline cleaning agents: Somewhere around a pH of 8.5 is the limit. Alkalinity will degrade organic fibers, can show up as yellowing or browning and causes fiber degradation over time. This is possibly the most important difference between cleaning conventional carpet and wool. The cleaner must be very careful that he (or she) does not use overly hot cleaning solution. Also, bleach is a huge no-no because it will actually dissolve wool. So don’t be tempted to remove a tough stain with bleach, and plan on hiring the carpet-dyeing guy. You’ll be hiring the repair guy instead.

With these few guidelines, you can get your carpets steam cleaned every year for many years to come — and even many of your children’s years — without fear that you are somehow ruining your wool carpets. If you hire a professional cleaner with the proper level of knowledge and skill, you are actually greatly extending the life and improving the appearance of your high end wool carpet. It’s perfectly safe and highly recommended that you get your wool carpets regularly steam cleaned.

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It’s easy to get overwhelmed by all the choices offered by carpet cleaning companies.

How’s a consumer to know whether hot water extraction, bonnet, or “dry” carbonation techniques are best? A reputable carpet cleaner can break it all down for you and help you make the right choice, and you will find great guidance from your carpet manufacturer. But here’s a quick translation of some of the most commonly bandied about terms.

Hot water extraction, or steam cleaning, is the most universally used carpet cleaning technique. This process typically involves spraying a solution of warm or hot water and a cleaning agent into the carpet, then extracting it all with a powerful vacuum. This can be a truck-mounted system or a portable unit. The truck mounted system ensures the dirt is removed outside the home.

“Hot water extraction is what (many of the major) carpet manufacturers recommend just because it gets rid of everything,” said Jeff at Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning of Newport Beach, CA. “I vacuum if needed; do a pre-spray to break up some of the dirt and then come right behind that with the hot water extraction. All of the dirt and water is being sucked out of your home, right into my truck.”

A downside to hot water extraction cleaning is a long dry time (2-3 Hrs), Taylor said, depending on the carpet type and the humidity level in the home.

Randy Carter, owner of Eco Carpet Cleaning, LLC in Indianapolis, offers both steam cleaning and “bonnet” — or low moisture — cleaning methods. He prefers the low-moisture approach.

The bonnet method consists of a round cleaning pad that fits like a cap over a rotary brush to help loosen dirt from the carpet. The method works particularly well in homes with pets, Jeff said. Jeff’s company uses plant and vegetable based cleaners, which are safe for children and pets, he said.

“We heat our solution up before we apply it to the carpet, which gives it more reaction to the carpet versus using just plain water,” Jeff said. “That gives us another edge in cleaning.”

While most carpet types can withstand any of these cleaning methods, it’s important to follow your carpet manufacturer’s recommended method. Some manufacturers will not honor the carpet’s warranty to cover damage if their specified method is not followed.

To keep your carpets cleaner longer, vacuum them regularly yourself with a good, household vacuum cleaner and have them professionally cleaned by a qualified and reputable company at least once a year and in accordance with your manufacturer’s instructions. Clean more often if you have pets or heavy foot traffic.

Professional cleaning costs typically start at around $79 for a small area and go up from there, depending on the size of your home and the type of cleaning you choose. According to Angie’s List reports for the past year in the Indianapolis area, the average carpet cleaning job costs about $400. This investment will pay off in the long-term by extending the useful life of your carpets. Avoid the temptation of offers from companies offering super-cheap cleanings: for example, a $49 whole-house cleaning. Generally speaking, these deals are too good to be true.

“They’re either going to cut costs in cleaning agents and just spray water, or they’re going to try to upgrade you on a bait and switch once they get into your home,” Taylor cautioned.

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May Katz had a trusted carpet cleaning company that she had always used, but the Indianapolis resident thought she’d try another company that had advertised a discounted cleaning.

As soon as the two representatives were in the door, though, they immediately tried to upsell Katz an additional $120 for “deep cleaning” service. When she declined, the cleaners were in and out of her three-level home in less than an hour and she didn’t notice a difference in the carpets’ appearance, other than that they were still wet after the technicians left. Katz noted than on previous, more positive carpet cleaning experiences, it took three technicians an hour and a half to clean her carpets.

“I thought it would take at least two hours,” Katz said. “It took them less than 45 minutes, so that made me kind of skeptical. I wasn’t certain if it was cleaned or not cleaned.”

Chris Stone, of Gallery Carpet Care in Zionsville, said he hears stories like Katz’s all the time from clients who call him in to redo a carpet cleaning job.

“When they show up and start trying to upsell you certain things, if (you decline), they’re not at all motivated to do the carpet in the best possible job,” Stone said. “We hear that a lot. They get there and the customer says, ‘I just want to get (the sale price),’ and they’ll say, ‘Yeah, we can do that, but if you actually want your carpets deep cleaned and want us to use a pre-spray and hot water…’ and they’ll start adding up all these charges. That should be a big red flag. A reputable company should have a one-price system, whether they charge per room or per square foot.”

Look for a carpet cleaning company that follows industry guidelines set forth by the Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC.)

“You want a company that’s in it for the long run,” Stone said. “When they show up to your door, look for the little things. Look at their appearance. If they’re poorly dressed or have a sloppy appearance, generally that translates into how their work is going to (look).”

It’s important, before hiring a carpet cleaner, to understand the type of carpet cleaning being done. Stone’s company, for example, offers only hot water extraction. That’s also known as steam cleaning, which is the method recommended by most carpet manufacturers. Other methods include low-moisture – or bonnet cleaning – and “dry” or carbonated techniques. Many manufacturers will not honor the carpet’s warranty if their recommended cleaning method is not used.

“(Most carpet manufacturers) demand using hot water extraction because it removes the most soil,” Stone said. “It’s able to sanitize the carpet with the heat and it’s the most thorough cleaning out there. We do hot water extraction with a truck mount, which we believe is the best way to clean your carpets. If you see somebody show up with a little portable (cleaner) or they ask to connect to your water source, you might want to look for someone else.”

Professional cleaning costs typically start at around $79 for a small area and goes up from there, depending on the size of your home and the type of cleaning you choose. Stone said he charges by the square foot, rather than the room.

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More than ever, people are becoming aware of the potentially harmful effects of chemical use in the home. We have many clients who contact our office that are looking for a green carpet cleaning service. “Can you clean my carpet without chemicals?” is a question we are often asked.

Technically speaking, the only way to clean a carpet without chemicals is to just vacuum it. Even plain water is a chemical compound (H2O). However, what is usually meant when asked if we can clean your carpet without chemicals is, “can you clean my carpet safely?”

The short answer is, “Yes.” Your carpet cleaner should have a variety of products that are very safe to use.

For most clients, a reasonable solution to the issue would be to pre-treat your carpet with a standard mild carpet pre-spray and work it into the fibers like normal. The key step would be to rinse and extract the carpet with clean hot water. The hot water extraction rinse would remove virtually all the pre-treatment and leave very little residue in your carpet.

For other clients who are extremely sensitive, your carpet cleaner should have access to other products that are extremely safe. One major manufacturer produces an anti-allergen pre-spray that is hypo-allergenic, non-toxic and free of dyes, perfumes, solvents, VOCs, phosphates or other hazardous materials.

Additionally, it is derived from renewable seed and vegetable sources and is formulated to meet or exceed all established standards of wool fiber producers and fifth generation stain resistant carpet manufacturers.

There is also a rinsing agent that can be used that matches this pre-spray and meets the same stringent restrictions. Or, if you prefer, your carpet cleaner can simply rinse and extract the pre-treated carpeting with hot water, as mentioned previously.

It’s nice to know that most carpet cleaning products manufactured for use today are very safe for you and your family. A well trained, certified carpet cleaning technician will be able to meet your needs and provide a very high level of service, leaving you with clean, safe carpeting in your home.

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Installing carpet in your home is a lot like buying a car — the moment you use it, the value starts depreciating.

Most carpet manufacturers say their carpet lasts around 10 years, but with proper care, many families are able to extend the life of their carpet even longer by utilizing professional carpet cleaners. At some point, though, you’ll need to decide whether cleaning or replacing your carpet is the best choice. To find out if replacing is right for you, consider these factors:

1. Wear and tear

Has your carpet seen better days? Are you putting rugs all over it to cover rips and tears, or rearranging furniture to cover defects? Are your kids scared to lay on it? Matted carpet, tears and significant wear on the main walkways are major signs your carpet is on its death bed.

Polyester carpet fibers have a reputation of matting and losing their form. Once it falls down and loses its tuft, it doesn’t return to normal, even with professional cleaning. Nylon carpeting, however, is typically more resilient than polyester and responds well to carpet cleaning, even when matted down.

You might be able to fix small tears and rips yourself, or you can hire a carpet professional to make the repair. However, large rips and tears tend to signal the carpet needs to be replaced, especially if the tears are present on stairs or major walkways.

2. Excessive stains

Are you covering up stains with furniture and rugs when cleaning fails to remove them? If your house is starting to resemble a mine field, it’s time to replace the carpet. Most carpets come with a stain-resistant finish, but over time the treatment fades, and eventually leaves the carpet unprotected. Luckily, professional carpet cleaners know tricks to remove tough stains. Dean Leffel, owner of highly rated Home Cleaning Centers of America in Indianapolis, says most carpet cleaners only clean to the base of your carpet, to avoid damaging the glue that binds your carpet to the pad. However, he says this doesn’t get any stains that penetrate deeper than the carpet.

“We have a system of flushing out deep stains with a flood extraction tool,” he says. In this method, Leffel floods the area with cleaning solution and uses a heavy duty extraction tool to remove the stain from the carpet and pad. Sometimes, Leffel says, stubborn stains just won’t go away. Bleach, plant food, tea, wine and mustard are typically the toughest stains to remove, and carpet cleaners say many homeowners make the stains worse by using shoddy DIY stain-removal methods they find on the web, or store-bought carpet-cleaning products that can actually damage carpet with harsh chemicals.

Stains caused by pet urine, feces, vomit, mold and mildew are usually easy to clean if you act fast. But these biological substances eventually will absorb into the carpet padding, leading to mold and mildew buildup under the carpet. If the biological stains are in several places, consider replacing the carpet to avoid health hazards with mold. Leffel says they sometimes get creative with replacing small pieces of stained carpet by removing carpet from a rarely used closet.

3. Consider age of carpet

Are you still using the 1970s shag carpet that came with your house? Have you had it cleaned several times? Believe it or not, carpet doesn’t last forever, even with good care. Most manufacturers say carpet should last for 10 years with proper care. After 10 years, signs of wear show on the major walkways and the carpet fibers start losing their texture and tuft. If you find yourself cleaning the carpet over and over and not getting the results you want, it might be time to lay the carpet to rest. Signs of old carpet include color loss, fading, matting, ripples, wrinkles and lack of padding support.

4. Condition of padding

Carpet padding is like the pillow under the case, the carpet is nothing but a layer of fabric without the padding. It helps support the carpet, working as a foundation and making it comfortable to walk and lay on. It buffers sounds and keeps a room quieter and even improves insulation. However, carpet padding also absorbs a lot of spills and cleaning the carpet doesn’t necessarily clean the padding. Signs of aging padding include unevenness, wrinkles and a crinkling sound when someone walks over it.

5. Odor

Are you spraying fabric freshener and lighting candles every time you have company? Spot-cleaning carpets and even professional cleaning might remove stains and odors from the carpet, but the padding often absorbs the smell. Leffel suggests asking carpet cleaners what method they use to remove wetness beneath the carpet, if odors are a problem. “The odor won’t go away unless they deep clean the stain and ensure the pad is dry,” he says. If you’ve tried to get rid of the old carpet smell and can’t, consider replacing the carpet.

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