Marble is porous, and easily stained and is etched by acids. Avoid setting beverage glasses directly on marble as they leave rings. Fruit juice, carbonated beverages or other acids will etch (remove shiny surface) if allowed to remain on marble. Wipe up acid spill immediately, and wipe surface with wet cloth. If surfaced is etched, polishing may be required.
Natural stone is very porous. The best way to prevent stains is to treat the surface with a protective sealer. The sealer fills in the pores and repels spills on the surface, allowing you time to completely wipe it away.
Dust mop interior marble floors frequently using a clean non-treated dry dust mop. Sand, dirt and grit do the most damage to natural stone surfaces due to their abrasiveness. Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the sand, dirt and grit that will scratch the stone floor. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug is a non-slip surface. Normally, it will take a person about eight steps on a floor surface to remove sand or dirt from the bottom of their shoes. Do not use vacuum cleaners that are worn. The metal or plastic attachments or the wheels may scratch the surface.
We recommend that you use care and maintenance products from StoneTech™ Professiona that are specially formulated to protect and enhance the beauty of your granite. Once the stone is sealed, clean up is usually easy. We recommend that you use StoneTech™ Professional Revitalizer™ Cleaner & Protector. Revitalizer™ cleans with a gentle, pH-neutral formula that removes soils while reinforcing the original protective seal to help prevent future staining.
Although we usually think of stone as “hard,” it is a porous material. Natural stone has varying degrees of porosity depending on the type of stone. If left unsealed, spills and everyday messes can easily penetrate the surface. The liquid eventually evaporates but the stain is left behind.
Removal of oily stains is easily accomplished with StoneTech™ Professional Oil and Stain Remover.
DuPont™ Fluorochemical technology, incorporated into StoneTech™ Professional BulletProof™ and StoneTech™ Professional Impregnator Pro, is the most advanced technology available, providing the ultimate shield against both water and oil-base stains. The micro-molecular formula actually bonds with the stone surface to deliver unsurpassed wear resistance and durability. And because the sealer reacts with the stone, you no longer have to worry about its porosity. It works on all types of stone, from ultra-porous Juparana Columbo to super-dense Absolute Black.
Marble is porous, and easily stained and is etched by acids. Avoid setting beverage glasses directly on marble as they leave rings. Fruit juice, carbonated beverages or other acids will etch (remove shiny surface) if allowed to remain on marble. Wipe up acid spill immediately, and wipe surface with wet cloth. If surfaced is etched, polishing may be required.
Natural stone is very porous. The best way to prevent stains is to treat the surface with a protective sealer. The sealer fills in the pores and repels spills on the surface, allowing you time to completely wipe it away.
Dust mop interior marble floors frequently using a clean non-treated dry dust mop. Sand, dirt and grit do the most damage to natural stone surfaces due to their abrasiveness. Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the sand, dirt and grit that will scratch the stone floor. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug is a non-slip surface. Normally, it will take a person about eight steps on a floor surface to remove sand or dirt from the bottom of their shoes. Do not use vacuum cleaners that are worn. The metal or plastic attachments or the wheels may scratch the surface.
We recommend that you use care and maintenance products from StoneTech™ Professiona that are specially formulated to protect and enhance the beauty of your granite. Once the stone is sealed, clean up is usually easy. We recommend that you use StoneTech™ Professional Revitalizer™ Cleaner & Protector. Revitalizer™ cleans with a gentle, pH-neutral formula that removes soils while reinforcing the original protective seal to help prevent future staining.
Although we usually think of stone as “hard,” it is a porous material. Natural stone has varying degrees of porosity depending on the type of stone. If left unsealed, spills and everyday messes can easily penetrate the surface. The liquid eventually evaporates but the stain is left behind.
Removal of oily stains is easily accomplished with StoneTech™ Professional Oil and Stain Remover.
DuPont™ Fluorochemical technology, incorporated into StoneTech™ Professional BulletProof™ and StoneTech™ Professional Impregnator Pro, is the most advanced technology available, providing the ultimate shield against both water and oil-base stains. The micro-molecular formula actually bonds with the stone surface to deliver unsurpassed wear resistance and durability. And because the sealer reacts with the stone, you no longer have to worry about its porosity. It works on all types of stone, from ultra-porous Juparana Columbo to super-dense Absolute Black.
Travertine, marble and limestone are all very similar in physical and chemical composition, so cleaning and care procedures are practically the same for all three types of stone. Let’s focus on travertine for a moment. Travertine is less dense, than granite for example, and is sensitive to acidic liquids such as wine, juice and coffee.
A lot depends on the type of finish applied to the travertine. When a honed or tumbled finish is used, it is more susceptible to staining and dulling by “etching.” Because of its porosity it needs a sealer to guard against staining. Polished travertine is practically stain-resistant.
Following are 7 tips to help clean and protect your travertine architectural stone:
1. Test and seal the stone — If your home has travertine installed in the bath, kitchen, dining room, etc., and it has a honed or tumbled finish, check with your designer to make sure the stone was sealed. This will help in the event of a spill of red wine, cranberry juice or another aggressive agent, especially on countertops and floors.
2. Wipe-up spills immediately — The stone is sensitive to things like tomato sauce, ketchup and certain carbonated beverages. It is best to clean up quickly using hot water and a stone cleaning product. Do not use vinegar, lemon or orange cleaning agents, bleach, ammonia or store-bought products that contain
acids, alkalis or other chemicals when cleaning travertine stone.
3. Dust mop a travertine floor — Use a clean non-treated, dry dust mop regularly and then once a week use a wet mop with hot water and a specially formulated stone cleaning agent. It is best not to vacuum stone flooring as the machine can create chips and cracks.
4. Protect and cover — Door mats and carpet runners should be used to help keep foot traffic from bringing in dirt and elements that will damage the travertine. For countertops and baths, use coasters for all drinks and decorative trays to protect the travertine from cosmetics and bath products like colognes, perfumes, oils, soaps and other toiletries. Prevention is the best remedy when it comes to maintaining travertine stone.
5. Poultices for stubborn stains — If the travertine gets stained and you can’t fix the problem through the normal cleaning procedures; a poultice may be the solution. Create a paste by combining a formulated stone cleaner with baking powder. Smooth this over the stain and cove with a clear plastic wrap. Let it stand for several days and the poultice will slowly draw the stain out. Remove the poultice with warm water and buff with a cotton cloth or chamois.
6. Deep stains — In the case of a serious stain that has penetrated the stone and remains evident even after every cleaning process has been attempted, an alkaline cleaner may need to be administered. This type of cleanser can be found in most tile and stone supply stores. It should be the last resort for cleaning travertine stone.
7. Ask a professional — Travertine is an excellent choice of stone for bathrooms, kitchens and dining areas and it’s luxurious appeal is a popular selling point for real estate agents. When you decide to incorporate this stone into your design plan always ask a professional the limitations and performance of this type of stone — they will also have the answers for its proper care and how to avoid damage, etching and staining.
What is the difference between cleaning carpet and upholstery?
Many people, even some professionals, don’t realize that there are significant differences in how these materials are treated. The top priority, when treating any kind of fabric is to avoid using too much water. Soaking the fabric will increase the chances of resoiling, foster mold or bacterial growth, release odors, or make the fabric unusable.
What kind of fabric is an important consideration when trying to avoid soaking the material? Carpet is thick and contains deeper pile depths, usually between 1/4 inch and a full inch in size. More water may need to be used to treat carpeting, and this requires a certain type of applicator. Hot water extractors used on carpet are larger and deal in greater volumes of water and solution. Upholstery, though, is thinner and can quickly become too wet if special care is not taken during treatment. When dealing with furniture, small handheld applicators or even a spray bottle may be all that’s required to apply enough water.
Fabric is not normally pretreated with chemicals over the entire surface before the treatment process as their more delicate build often means the chemical will evaporate before the treatment begins. Carpet, though, is thick enough to make pretreatment worthwhile.
When should someone consider hiring a professional trained in cleaning upholstery?
Working with fabric requires precision, as it is less tolerant of mistakes made when treating it. Whenever tough stains or noticeable soiling is apparent, a professional will likely be needed to remove it. Regular treatment by a professional is also recommended if there are children or pets in the home. Furniture fabric picks up a lot of pet fur and dander, and this can inflame allergies or look unsightly. Children are prone to creating messes with tiny hands and feet. Regular treatment ensures the fabric doesn’t harbor dangerous molds or other microbes that can harm a child, so hiring a professional is invaluable to the family’s health.
How can a technician find appropriate training for cleaning upholstery?
The Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) is one of the most respected training agencies in the world and has helped tens of thousands of professionals get the skills they need in this field. One of the IICRC’s courses, the Upholstery and Fabric Cleaning Technician, or UFT, teaches students the best way to care for fabric and is ideal for people looking to break into this area of the industry. During the UFT course, students will learn how to identify a variety of fabrics and construction types. Students will also be introduced to a number of treatment chemicals, technologies and techniques. By the time the two day course is over, students will be able to handle a range of various situations.
What are the benefits to certification through the IICRC?
Once a professional is certified through the IICRC and have applied for and received approval for Certified Firm status, they will be placed in the institute’s locator database. Consumers regularly peruse this database, so it can generate good publicity for a company that has certified technicians. Certification is also an important consideration for people looking for a professional, and this is confirmed through several consumer studies. In short, IICRC certification is an excellent way to gain additional business and status in the industry.
Many homeowners may not realize that steam cleaning furniture is possible. Actually, this process can extend the life of many items in the house. While there are some over the counter items that a consumer can use to perform basic procedures on fabrics, these are not effective as the services of a professional. An expert who is trained to treat household fixtures will be able to remove more dirt, debris, odor, and stains. They will also be better equipped and trained to monitor water usage (over-saturating the fabric can leave the item in worse shape than before.)
When professionals for steam cleaning furniture, it is best to stick to those that are properly certified. This best stamp of approval is backed by the Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification. Certified technicians can be trusted to act in good faith and operate using the best possible practices. The IICRC is the main oversight agency that oversees companies in the industry, and they regularly mandate what methods and equipment should be used to do the most effective job. They do not endorse brands, but instead determine what kinds of equipment are the most efficacious at removing debris and leaving the carpet and fabric spotless. Registrants of the IICRC that have achieved this type of certification symbolize excellence and must have several years in the industry and proven themselves to be able to do the job effectively, upholding the standards set forth. This ensures that they are up to date on the most effective methods in the industry.
Over time, items in the home pick up dirt. Dust mites and possibly microbes can grow if they are exposed to food or other organic substances. If left alone, these fixtures can cause health issues for those that are sensitive or have weakened immune systems. Because of this, steam cleaning furniture can deliver real health benefits to the home. With a trained professional, it can be done cost effectively and quickly.
The high powered washers that professionals use are better at removing stains and extracting debris deep in the fabric than anything that can be rented or bought at the department store. It also takes a trained hand not to use too much water or detergent, as either can cause damage. One of the most common mistakes homeowners make when steam cleaning furniture is using too much liquid on the fabric. For items that are porous and capable of absorbing a lot of moisture, this can cause mold growth or odors which will require a professional to remove.
A company that is capable of steam cleaning furniture will also likely have members on staff that can perform other services for the homeowner if they are required. It’s common for these services to also offer carpet cleaning and repair. They may also be able to handle odors left behind by water or fire damage. They can also service hardwood or ceramic tile floors in most cases as well. For items that are made out of wood, at least in part, the professionals may be able to refinish or treat the wood to prolong the life of these pieces of furniture.
The best way to Clean Travertine Tile: Interior and Exterior Upkeep Tips
Flooring Installation & Care Travertine Tile
Travertine tile will add a lifetime of beauty to your home, but only if it’s properly cared for. Before deciding that travertine stone is the best option for your home, it’s important to understand what’s involved in the cleaning and maintenance of travertine. You wouldn’t purchase a car without learning about its safety features or gas mileage. If you want your travertine stone tile to last a lifetime, it’s important to learn the ins and outs of proper travertine stone care.
sweeping-beige-stone-floor
Regular maintenance is key to a long lasting floor.
Maintenance of Travertine Installed Indoors
There are generally two types of stone that are most often used in interiors: hone-finished stone and polished-finish stone. Hone-finish stone has a satin-smooth surface with little light reflection, while Polish-finished stone has a high gloss surface that reflects light and also accentuates the color and stone markings. Honed-finish travertine stone is commonly found in high traffic areas such as floors, thresholds, and treads, whereas polished-finish stone is found on counter tops, walls, tables, and furniture.
Interior stone can generally be cleaned by dry dust mopping to remove dirt and debris. To wash your interior stone, use a neutral (PH 7) and clean water. Honed-finish stone can tolerate only a neutral PH 7 mild abrasive cleaner. It’s ideal to use a soapless cleaner, as soap can often leave streaks and film behind, which may be noticeable on polish-finished travertine stone. Ideally you should use mild, phosphate-free, biodegradable liquid dishwashing soaps or powders or stone soaps to clean your travertine.
Follow the manufacturer’s directions on the cleaning solution and gently wash in an overlapping sweeping motion from the bottom up (on a vertical surface). Change the water often as you go and rinse thoroughly with clean water. If necessary, a wet vacuum can be employed to remove contaminants from the tile. If you’re cleaning a high traffic area, an automatic scrubber fitted with a disc brush will work effectively to remove dirt and debris without damaging the stone tile.
Many foods, drinks, and cosmetics contain acids that may etch or dull a stone’s surface. For this reason, it’s important to use coasters, trivets on counter tops and tables or where food preparation is likely. Many food preparation stone surfaces use a sealant; be aware that any sealant or impregnator must be nontoxic and safe for food preparation surfaces. Spills should be blotted immediately or as soon after as possible to avoid damaging the stone’s surface. Regular cleaning with a solvent-free cleaner will keep surfaces looking their best.
Because travertine comes from the limestone family, you should never use an acid or chemical cleaner when caring for the surface. There are many cleaners readily available for stone cleaning. Your stone supplier or installer can direct you to the best cleaner available for your travertine stone.
Sealing Travertine
In order to keep your travertine tile looking like new, it is important that a sealant be applied. Some tiles will not require this, as they will be pre-sealed. To determine if your tile needs to be sealed, apply a small amount of water to the surface. If the water is absorbed by the tile and the tile darkens, it needs to be sealed. The surface preparation, density, and porosity of the stone will help you determine whether a water based or petroleum based sealer is indicated. Check for the tile manufacturer’s recommendation and then purchase the very best sealant in your budget.
Stain Removal Suggestions
Removal of most surface stains is possible by using the proper household or commercial cleaning product. The first step to removal, however, is identification. Once you have identified the cause of the stain, you will know what type of cleaning method is required to achieve the best result.
Oil-based Stains – An oil-based stain is one created by grease, cooking oil, cosmetics, tar, and other items that have any oil in them. An oil-based stain darkens the stone and will usually need to be chemically cleaned in order to dissolve and then rinse away the source. First, you must remove any excess staining agent by wiping it away if it’s soft, or in the case of tar, chipping it off. Then clean the area gently with a soft liquid cleanser. Suitable cleansers include ammonia, household detergent, acetone, or mineral spirits. It’s important that you don’t pour the cleaner directly on the staining agent itself, as that could cause the agent to thin and seep into more of the stone. Instead, wet a cloth with the cleaner and place it over the stain in order to draw the agent into the cloth. You may also use a cleaner specifically designed to remove oil-based stains such as an alkaline degreaser or a homemade poultice.
Organic Stains – An organic stain is one created by an organic substance such as coffee, tea, tobacco, fruit juice, food, paper, urine, leaves, bird droppings, or bark. These substances will often leave a pinkish-brown stain that, if outdoors, may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed because of the normal bleaching process caused by the rain and sun. However, if the stain is indoors you will have to use a cleaning formula. To make your own you can use 12% hydrogen peroxide mixed with a few drops of ammonia. You can also purchase commercially marketed cleaners or use a homemade poultice.
Ink Stains – Any form of ink, such as that found in magic markers or pens, could cause an ink stain. If the color of the stone is light, clean it with bleach or hydrogen peroxide. For darker stones use acetone or lacquer thinner. Do not pour a cleaner directly on the stain, as it could result in the staining agent thinning and spreading further along the surface. Instead, wet a cloth with the cleaning agent and allow the stain to be drawn into it.
Paint Stains – If the paint is covering only a small portion of the tile, scrape it off with a razor blade, or remove with a lacquer thinner. If a large area is covered by the paint, it must be removed with a commercially formulated liquid paint stripper. Under no circumstances should you use flame tools or acid to strip the paint from the stone.
Water Spots and Rings – Water damage occurs due to the surface accumulation of hard water. To remove these stains buff the affected area with dry #0000 steel wool.
Fire and Smoke Damage – This damage is typically seen with stone that is part of a fireplace. In order to remove the stain you must thoroughly clean the stone. This is most easily accomplished with commercially formulated smoke removal products.
Etch Marks – These stains are left by acid that has been left on the surface of the stone. Some acids will cause the finish to be etched but the surface of the stone won’t actually be stained; other acids will etch the finish and discolor the stone. Once the acid has been removed, wet the surface with water and apply marble polishing powder. Rub the powder into the stone with a buffing pad and a drill or polisher set to a low speed, or by hand with a damp cloth. Buff until the etch marks disappear and the surface shines. Honing may be needed for a deep stain that requires a professional stone refinisher.
Efflorescence – This is a white powdery substance that appears on the stone’s surface. It is caused by mineral salts within the stone being carried to the surface of the stone by water and then being left behind when the water evaporates. For new installations simply vacuum or dry mop the surface of the stone and repeat as needed until the stone has completely dried. Do not use water to remove the powder, as this could exacerbate the situation. If the problem is persistent, contact the contractor in order to identify and remedy the cause of the moisture.
Poultices
A poultice is applied to a stone tile to remove a stain. To make a poultice you must combine an absorbent material with a chemical, or mixture of chemicals, in order to form a thick paste. The poultice is then spread over the affected area in a thickness of between ¼ ” to ½ ” with a plastic or wooden implement and allowed to stand for between 24 and 48 hours. During this time, the chemical will draw the stain into the absorbent material and away from the stone. This process may have to be repeated several times in order to remove the stain. However, it is possible that the stain may not be removed completely.
Poultice Materials
Absorbent materials you can use for the poultice include fuller’s earth, kaolin, diatomaceous earth, whiting, powdered chalk, talk, and white molding plaster. About one pound of your chosen material will be needed for each square foot of tile that must be cleaned. Whiting and iron based clays such as fuller’s earth should not be used with acidic chemicals, as the reaction will prevent the poultice from being effective. Highly volatile solvents such as mineral spirits or acetone can be combined with other absorbent substances such as white paper towels, white cotton balls, or white gauze pads. Commercially available premixed poultices that require only the addition of water may also be used.
Poultice Mixtures
The poultice you decide to use will depend on the type of stain. Each type of stain will require a different mixture for optimal removal.
Oil-Based Stains – Create a poultice with water and baking soda or combine one of the powdered absorbent materials and a commercial degreaser or mineral spirits.
Organic Stains – Create a poultice with one of the powdered absorbent materials and a 12% hydrogen peroxide or acetone.
Iron Stains – Create a poultice with a commercial rust remover and diatomaceous earth. However, be careful as many rust removers will etch stone. It may be necessary to consult a professional to remove an iron stain.
Copper Stains – Create a poultice with ammonia and one of absorbent materials. However, these stains are very difficult to remove and may require the services of a professional.
Water Based Paint Stains – Create a poultice with a commercial paint remover and one of the absorbent materials.
Oil Based Paint Stains – Create a poultice with mineral spirits and one of the absorbent materials. If the stain is deep within the stone, it may require methylene chloride. If you must use a highly volatile solvent in your poultice, pour it directly on a paper towel and then place the paper towel on the affected area.
Ink Stains – Create a poultice with mineral spirits and one of the absorbent materials. If the stain is embedded deeply within the stone it may be necessary to use methylene chloride. If you do use a highly volatile solvent, pour it directly on a paper towel and place directly on the affected area.
Biological Stains – Create a poultice with ammonia and one of the absorbent materials. Instead of ammonia you can use bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Only use one of the chemicals, do not mix as they combine to create a toxic gas.
*Flammable Materials – The above text does not purport to address all possible safety concerns which are associated with the use of flammable solvents. The user is cautioned to consult the manufacturer’s labeling and MSDS for complete cleaning directions and handling directions for the individual products. There are commercial cleaners available for many of the most common stains, which may have fewer safety and health concerns.
Poultice Application
First, you will need to prepare the poultice. If you are using powdered material, mix it with the cleaning agent or chemical until a thick paste with a smooth consistency is formed. If you are using a paper product or cloth soak it in the chemical and let the excess drain. You do not want the liquid to drip. Next, you must prepare the stained area by wetting it with distilled water. You are now ready to apply the poultice. Apply ¼” to ½” of the poultice to the affected area and beyond it by about one inch using a wooden or plastic scraper or spatula to apply evenly.
Once you have applied the poultice cover it with plastic and tape the edges to seal the poultice in. Make several small holes in the plastic covering to allow ventilation. You will now need to give the poultice enough time to completely dry and draw out the stain. This could take up to 48 hours. After 24 hours remove the plastic and allow the poultice to continue drying.
Once the poultice is completely dry, remove it from the affected area, rinse with distilled water, and buff dry using a soft cloth. If the stain is still visible, repeat the process. Repetition may be required as many as five times. If the surface has been etched by one of the chemical agents, apply a polishing powder and buff with the pad recommended by the manufacturer.
Cleaning Travertine Installed Outdoors
Exterior stone is any stone or stone tile that is used on the exterior of a structure. It may be utilized as a facing material such as siding or as a structural component. The first step to maintaining travertine installed outside is routine cleaning, ideally at least once per year. This can be done simply by rinsing with clean water in order to prevent an accumulation of dirt and other impurities. If regular cleaning has not been performed, the most cost-efficient method is one of the commercially available water systems such as hydro-air, plain water, or hydraulic.
Older buildings, with an accumulation of dirt on the stones, may be more difficult to clean. A pressure washer should remove most accumulation. If additional cleaning is necessary soft bristled brushes are recommended. However, the use of chemicals on exterior stone could be detrimental to the appearance and should be used only by professionals.
Testing
Before you begin a cleaning project choose a small section to test. This will ensure that the cleaning method produces satisfactory results and is not detrimental to the stone. Ideally, the section should be in the least visible place possible in case any discoloration takes place.
Grout Sealing
Not all grouts need to be sealed. To determine if your grout needs to be sealed apply a small amount of water to the grout. If the grout darkens, a sealer is required. The two types of grout sealers are a topical sealer and a penetrating sealer. The topical sealer will create a wet look and a penetrating sealer provides a natural look, which does not affect the appearance of the grout.
One method of sealer application is to apply the sealer directly to the grout joints and buff off any that happens to adhere to the tile. Another popular method is to apply the sealer over the entire surface of the tile and grout joints and then buff the sealer off the tile with a terry cloth or soft rag. For the best results follow the manufacturer’s guidelines closely.
Grout Cleaning
As with tile, it is important that any spills be immediately wiped up from the grout. Soap-less detergents and pH balanced cleaners should be used for routine cleanings. Loosen debris in grout joints with a soft bristled brush then rinse with water and allow the area to dry. Acidic cleaners should be avoided because they can make cleaning more difficult in the future and may permanently damage or discolor grout when used repeatedly.
Stained Grout
If you need to clean a stain, or if the grout has not been cleaned routinely, a pH cleaner and soft bristled brush is still recommended. Apply the cleaner and let it rest for a few minutes and then use the brush to ensure the cleaner is thoroughly worked into the grout. If this is not adequate, it may be necessary to utilize one of the alkaline cleaners that are often labeled as providing a “deep clean.”
Another option is the use of commercial cleaning machines or buffers. These are especially useful for large areas of tile and grout that need a deep cleaning. There are several cleaning solution options for these machines.
A final option is the use of acidic cleaners, although this is the least desirable due to the problems mentioned earlier. The two safest, and most effective, options are cleaners with sulfamic acid and phosphoric acid. If you do use one of these cleaning products, it is critical that you follow the directions exactly in order to harm your flooring and tile as little as possible. No matter what cleaning method you choose, you need to thoroughly rinse, dry, and polish the area you have cleaned.
Cleaning Grout Haze
Grout haze is the residue left by the application of the grout on the face of the tile. This can often be removed by using just water and a scouring pad. If that does not produce satisfactory results a scouring cleanser may be used or a poultice and a pad. Other options include a commercially available grout haze removal cleaning solution or an acidic cleaning solution.
No matter which type of travertine you choose or where you install it, taking proper care of it is essential for lasting quality. Following these recommendations along with your manufacturer’s recommendations will help keep your space in tip top shape and your travertine in like-new condition.
Using a steam cleaner to clean ceramic tile on the floor and the walls can remove that sticky residue often left behind when using traditional floor cleaners. The high-pressure steam both cleans and disinfects the ceramic tile surfaces without the use of harsh chemicals that can sometimes damage ceramic tile or grout. Using a steam cleaner protects your skin from those same harsh chemicals. Steam cleaners can heat the water up to 220-degrees Fahrenheit to blast dirt out of small cracks and crevices that a regular mop would leave behind.
1
Sweep your ceramic tile floor with a broom or dust mop to pick up larger items of debris that the steam cleaner might not catch. Wipe down ceramic tile walls with a dust rag to remove cobwebs that sometimes gather in the corners.
2
Remove the fill cap and fill the water tank on your steam cleaner with distilled water. Depending on the type of steam cleaner you own, the tank attaches to the handle or is a separate container. Do not add any cleaning products to your water tank. Replace the fill cap.
3
Attach the microfiber cloth provided with your steam cleaner to the steam cleaner head. Some steam cleaner cloths attach to the cleaner head with hook and latch strips while others use elastic.
4
Plug your steam cleaner into the wall outlet. Turn on your unit if your unit has a separate on off switch. Some units turn on automatically when you plug the cord into the wall outlet. Some models of steam cleaners are ready for use within 30 seconds, while others require several minutes to heat the water in the tank.
5
Pump the handle or squeezed the trigger on your steam cleaner to release the steam through the microfiber cloth. Move your steam cleaner’s head back and forth over your ceramic tile the same way you would when mopping your floor with water.
6
Unplug your steam cleaner from the wall outlet to change the microfiber cloth or to change an attachment to clean ceramic tile on the wall. Plug the steam cleaner back into the wall outlet to heat the water.
7
Clean ceramic tile on walls or countertops by moving the microfiber cloth or attachment back and forth across the tile. When steam cleaning shower wall tile, wipe the tile down with a terry cloth towel immediately after cleaning to remove the loosened soap scum and hard water deposits.
8
Unplug the steam cleaner from the wall outlet. Remove the microfiber cloth from your steam cleaner. Allow your ceramic tile to dry. Since you are using steam instead of water, drying times are much shorter than mopping or cleaning with soap and water.
Using a steam cleaner to clean ceramic tile on the floor and the walls can remove that sticky residue often left behind when using traditional floor cleaners. The high-pressure steam both cleans and disinfects the ceramic tile surfaces without the use of harsh chemicals that can sometimes damage ceramic tile or grout. Using a steam cleaner protects your skin from those same harsh chemicals. Steam cleaners can heat the water up to 220-degrees Fahrenheit to blast dirt out of small cracks and crevices that a regular mop would leave behind.
1
Sweep your ceramic tile floor with a broom or dust mop to pick up larger items of debris that the steam cleaner might not catch. Wipe down ceramic tile walls with a dust rag to remove cobwebs that sometimes gather in the corners.
2
Remove the fill cap and fill the water tank on your steam cleaner with distilled water. Depending on the type of steam cleaner you own, the tank attaches to the handle or is a separate container. Do not add any cleaning products to your water tank. Replace the fill cap.
3
Attach the microfiber cloth provided with your steam cleaner to the steam cleaner head. Some steam cleaner cloths attach to the cleaner head with hook and latch strips while others use elastic.
4
Plug your steam cleaner into the wall outlet. Turn on your unit if your unit has a separate on off switch. Some units turn on automatically when you plug the cord into the wall outlet. Some models of steam cleaners are ready for use within 30 seconds, while others require several minutes to heat the water in the tank.
5
Pump the handle or squeezed the trigger on your steam cleaner to release the steam through the microfiber cloth. Move your steam cleaner’s head back and forth over your ceramic tile the same way you would when mopping your floor with water.
6
Unplug your steam cleaner from the wall outlet to change the microfiber cloth or to change an attachment to clean ceramic tile on the wall. Plug the steam cleaner back into the wall outlet to heat the water.
7
Clean ceramic tile on walls or countertops by moving the microfiber cloth or attachment back and forth across the tile. When steam cleaning shower wall tile, wipe the tile down with a terry cloth towel immediately after cleaning to remove the loosened soap scum and hard water deposits.
8
Unplug the steam cleaner from the wall outlet. Remove the microfiber cloth from your steam cleaner. Allow your ceramic tile to dry. Since you are using steam instead of water, drying times are much shorter than mopping or cleaning with soap and water.
Vacuum first! Carpet steamers (also known as carpet shampooers) aren’t vacuums. They’re specifically designed to wash and at least partially dry carpets, extracting grime as they go. If you want them to get the ground-in dirt out of your carpet, you must vacuum it thoroughly before steam cleaning it. That doesn’t mean your usual quick back-and-forth over the carpet, either. To thoroughly vacuum your carpet, you need to follow a few extra steps.
Pick up all toys, books and other items on the floor.
Remove your furniture or, at the very least, pick up smaller pieces (floor lamps, ottomans, etc.) and take them to another room.
Dust your baseboards so you’re not just knocking stuff off of them and back on to your freshly-vacuumed carpet.
Using your crevice attachment, go around the base of the walls, fireplace hearth, and all of the edges of the carpeting.
If you weren’t able to remove all of your furniture, use the crevice attachment to go around the base of heavier, immobile items (e.g., a piano).
Switch to the flooring attachment (it’s a flat one, usually with small rollers on the bottom) and vacuum beneath heavier furniture, like a raised sofa or armchair.
Using the standard vacuum set-up, vacuum your carpeting slowly in one direction using a back-and-forth motion. When you’ve completed the entire room, vacuum it again from a 90-degree angle. Although this seems like overkill, it’s not, since carpet fibers are actually twisted so vacuuming from different directions ensures each “side” of the fiber gets cleaned.
Treat stains next. Yes, the carpet cleaning machine will remove quite a bit of grime and dust from your flooring, but the heat involved can also set stains, making them even more difficult to remove. You’ve probably experienced this yourself, having cleaned your carpet only to find the stains returning a few days later. Why? Because the cleaning process forced the grime into the carpet pad and later the carpet fibers wicked it out of the pad and back to the surface.
Prepare the room: If you can remove all of the furniture from the room, great. If not, you’ll want to cut squares of wax paper or aluminum foil and slide them beneath the edges or feet of furniture. This will protect your furniture and keep it from absorbing any moisture in the carpet left behind after steam cleaning. Leave them in place until the carpet is thoroughly dry, usually about a day.
It’s always a good idea to spot-test any cleaning product you plan to use on your carpet. I recommend testing in a closet or other out-of-the-way location. This way you don’t risk damaging or fading your carpet with a product that’s not right for it.
Use the machine properly. Most carpet steam cleaners are designed to lay down water when you’re pushing the machine forward then extract it while you pull it back. Be sure to pull the machine VERY slowly so you can extract as much water as possible. Too much water left behind will cause your carpet padding to get soaked and can lead to mold, mildew, and horrible odors. For this reason it’s also best to steam clean carpeting when the weather is warm enough to open the windows, since that will speed up drying considerably.
My two-step process: If you are concerned about your machine’s warranty then, by all means, use the products recommended by the manufacturer. I’ve had great success using the following two-step method and it’s never caused a problem with my machine.
Most carpet cleaning machine manufacturers recommend using their specially-formulated products. These products are also highly perfumed, something that can irritate allergies and asthma. I’ve also found they don’t clean any better than using a homemade solution while costing much, much more.
Step One: For the first step, I use 1 tablespoon of Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soap for every quart of almost (but not) boiling water while filling my machine’s tank. This stuff is amazing in its ability to power through grime, and I’m always amazed at just what a difference that first pass-through makes to my carpet. But Dr. Bronner’s is soap, and leaving soap on carpeting can attract even more grime, which is why I do a second pass-through.
Step Two: On the second go-through, I use a 50-50 mix of white vinegar and almost boiling water which has the effect of neutralizing the soap while extracting it along with any remaining grime.
How often? At a minimum, you need to steam clean your carpeting once a year. If you have pets, suffer from allergies, or wear shoes indoors then you’ll want to steam clean or shampoo your carpet more often — in late Spring and late Autumn are good times since it’s typically warm enough to open the windows to speed the drying process. Between steam cleanings or shampooing it’s important that you vacuum your carpets at least once a week, including around the base of the walls, and more often in high-traffic areas.
If your vacuum is set too low, you can damage the carpet as well as the vacuum’s roller brush and drive belt. If it’s set too high, you won’t pick up any dirt. To set the vacuum’s ideal height, raise it to its highest setting, turn it on and lower it until you can feel the vacuum trying to tug itself forward.
Dirt is like thousands of little blades that cut carpet fibers. When you walk across a dirty carpet, you grind sharp dirt particles against the yarn, making tiny nicks in the fibers. All that fuzz mixed in with the dirt in your vacuum cleaner bags is your beautiful carpet headed out the door one bag at a time. When dirt scratches the fibers, it dulls the sheen, which is why high-traffic areas appear duller than the rest of the carpet. Over time, grinding dirt wears away the fibers too, which mats them down and makes them stain more easily. Follow these tips to keep your carpet as dirt-free as possible.
Vacuum often
To protect your carpet, vacuum entrance areas and high-traffic areas twice a week and the rest of the carpeting at least weekly. Oily soils attract oily soils, and frequent vacuuming will reduce soil buildup.
Start with a clean bag or filter
A dirty bag, dirt cup or filter can cut a vacuum’s suction power in half. The main reason bagless vacuums stop working is that the filters aren’t changed often enough. Replace or wash (if possible) the filters on bagless vacuums every three months. Replace vacuum bags when they’re three-quarters full.
Vacuum at the right speed
Vacuum slowly enough to get out as much dirt as possible. Make one quick pass over low-traffic areas and two slow passes over high-traffic areas. Two slow passes removes ground-in dirt more effectively than several fast passes.
Use walk-off mats
Use walk-off mats inside and out to keep dirt off the carpeting. Coarse-textured mats outside your doors remove soil. Water-absorbent mats inside prevent wet shoes on the carpeting.
Four ways to recognize quality pros: 1. Truck mounted equipment
Truck-mounted equipment is a better choice than portable steam cleaning equipment because it exhausts the dirty air and humidity outside. Its stronger suction leaves carpets drier, too.
Most carpet manufacturers recommend professional hot water extraction as the primary cleaning method for synthetic carpets. Although it’s often referred to as “steam” cleaning, there’s no steam involved. The carpet is pretreated with a detergent solution, and then a very hot rinse solution under high pressure is forced into your carpet and vacuumed out. When done correctly, this process cleans deep and doesn’t leave behind a soap residue. Quality pros charge $200 to $300 to deep clean 1,000 sq. ft. of carpet. At that price, you might be tempted to skip professional cleanings altogether and just rent a machine to clean the carpet yourself. Don’t. Or at least don’t do only that. A rented or purchased carpet-cleaning machine will remove the surface dirt. But deep cleaning to remove allergens, dust and greasy residues requires the specialized equipment and training of a pro. The best strategy is to use our DIY cleaning tips most of the time and hire a professional every 12 to 18 months.
Don’t take bids over the phone
Quality pros will provide references, an in-home inspection and a written estimate based on the square footage, type and condition of the carpeting rather than the number of rooms cleaned, and a written guarantee of their work.
Beware of “discount” carpet cleaners
Discount pros depend on making volume sales rather than establishing ongoing client relationships. They typically spray soap on your carpet, suck up the water and are gone in 30 minutes. These services leave behind a soap residue that will actually attract dirt to your carpet. Those “three rooms for 50 bucks” offers also get them into your house so they can sell you high-priced add-ons like spot removal and deodorizers—services that quality pros include for free.
You get what you pay for
Quality pros charge according to the type of carpeting, the services you need and the size of the job. The entire process can take one to three hours.
Use DIY machines carefully
Hurrying through a cleaning will leave soap residue, a soaked carpet and a pad that can mold or mildew. Larger rental machines require you to pull them across the floor rather than push.
Carpet pros do a more thorough job than you can, but hiring a pro is expensive. So the next-best approach is to alternate between DIY and pro cleanings. DIY “steam”-cleaning machines can be effective if you understand how to use them and take the time to clean your carpet carefully.
You can rent a steam cleaner from a grocery store or home center. If you pick the machine up late in the day, many stores will charge you a half-day rate and let you keep the machine until the next morning. The detergent cost is additional. Typically you should use a tablespoon or less per gallon of water.
If you prefer to buy a steam-cleaning machine, plan to spend $60 to $300 or more. The pricier models have more powerful water jets and suction, and some even have a heating element to keep the water hot. The reviews on these machines are mixed, and some are prone to breakdowns. Do some online research (type “carpet cleaning machines” into your browser) before you buy.
Most rental machines weigh more, hold more water and come with a wider wand than purchased models, making them useful for larger, high-traffic areas. Purchased models are usually smaller, more portable and easier to store. They’re good for spot cleaning and are easier to drag up and down stairs. Whether you rent or buy, avoid damaging your carpets and make your cleaning last longer by following our tips.
Clean the carpet before it becomes really dirty
How often your carpet needs cleaning depends on the kind of carpet traffic you have (think kids and pets). Clean the carpet when the color starts looking dull. If you wait until the carpet is filthy, cleaning it will be much more difficult, take much longer and cost more.
Vacuum well before and after cleaning
Vacuum beforehand to remove large particles of soil. Vacuum again after you clean and the carpet is completely dry to pick up soil that wicks to the surface during drying.
Pre-treat stains and high-traffic areas
Mix a drop of detergent with hot water in a spray bottle and lightly mist the dirtiest areas. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes before starting the general cleaning.
Remove or elevate furniture
If your furniture is too heavy to move, put aluminum foil squares, wood blocks or plastic film under and around the legs of all furniture to prevent rust from metal casters or stains from paint and finishes from transferring to damp carpet.
Don’t over wet the carpet
DIY machines put a lot of moisture into the carpet, and most don’t have strong enough suction to extract it thoroughly. Make only one pass with the soap and water solution. Make one pass with the neutralizing rinse solution. Then make two or three drying passes with the water off.
Let it dry thoroughly
Wet carpet is a perfect environment for mold and mildew. After you clean your carpets, open the windows, use fans and a dehumidifier, or put the AC on a moderate setting (72 to 78 degrees) to remove excess moisture from the air. Don’t replace the furniture or walk on the carpet until it’s completely dry. This can take up to 12 hours, though six to eight hours is typical.
Don’t dig or scoop food spills
Digging or scooping can work the stain into the carpet. If there are solids on top of the stain, use a spoon or dull knife to carefully scrape the food toward the middle of the spill and into a white towel and then treat the stain.
Act quickly
If you get to a stain immediately, there’s a 99 percent chance you can remove it. The longer a stain reacts chemically with the carpeting, the harder it is to remove.
Try water first
Eighty percent of stains can be removed using plain tap water. To remove a stain, press a clean, dry, white cloth over the stain to absorb the spill. Repeat until the spill is absorbed. Then gently work water into the stain with a damp white towel and blot until the stain is gone. Change cloths when necessary. For a particularly stubborn spot, go to the online “spot solver” resource at The Carpet and Rug Institute (the carpet manufacturers’ trade organization) to find your stain and a suggested solution. Use a fan to dry the area if it’s very wet.
Blot—don’t rub or scrub
Scrubbing a stain will damage the fibers and create a fuzzy area. Always blot from the outer edge toward the center of the stain to avoid spreading the spot and creating a larger problem.
Be patient
Work water gently into the spill and then blot with a dry cloth. Repeat until the stain is gone and all the water has been absorbed. If you’re patient, you’ll almost always be able to remove the stain.
On tough spots, try vinegar or club soda
If water alone doesn’t remove a stain, try a white vinegar and water solution (equal amounts) or club soda before trying stronger commercial cleaning products.
Test commercial products first
Some products can cause carpet to get dirty faster or damage the carpet’s color and texture. For a list of carpet manufacturer- approved spot and stain cleaners, go online to The Carpet and Rug Institute. Test carpet-cleaning
